Life North of Naples

Gloriously this weekend, I made my first Italian road trip more north than I have ever been been before!  In an odd twist of fate, when I first arrived in Naples, I was working almost every weekend.  Seeing Italy is a difficult feat when you are 1) trying to make new friends who are only off on weekends and 2) not sure where anything is and 3) not sure how to get there.  But now the tables have turned.  I was off on a weekend (huge plus) was able to hang out with three of my friends (another huge plus) and took a road trip through the rolling hills of Tuscany, up to Parma, Verona, and San Marino.

The hilltop fortress town of Orvieto was the first stop and the first meal.  I know I tell stories by the food, but honestly, each mouthful is so delicious, I catch myself with each bite to savor the different tastes.  I love the way the Italians complement the foods with the wines.  Even with the antipasti, the waitresses, who are usually the restaurant owners, point out the wines they recommend and allow us to sample a truly complete meal.   A brisk walk around the town capped with a tasty gelateria stop made for a wonderful afternoon.  As I stood in the massive shadows of each new duomo, I felt dwarfed by the beauty of these buildings that have stood long enough to have watched centuries of visitors walk the streets on which they sit.

Parma was the next destination and what a delight to behold.  The city streets were lined with banners heralding the nearby Verdi concerts and tiny vias were abuzz with shoppers out, I can only assume, to begin their Christmas shopping.  The main piazza in Parma is a promenade of beautifully dressed men and women, which seems only fitting as Parma is the most affluent town in Italy.  The beauty of the winter coats that topped the leather boots worn by every feminine shopper seemed the dress code of the evening, and as we southern Neapolitans huddled together for warmth, they braved the dropping temperature with grace.  We discovered that most restaurants closed early, but blessing of blessings! The wine bars each had their own free buffet of antipasti and pizze!  Perfetto!  As we grazed on the tasty dishes and gazed in the store windows, we all agreed that Parma is one of the cleanest cities in Italy.

After a breakfast of fresh prosciutto di parma and cheese, we set out to the Parmesan cheese factory where I smelled a little too much Parmesan.  The tasting however, FAR made up for the initial smells and I learned two valuable lessons: 1) never purchase grated cheese at stores.   Apparently this is the third grade cheese that most Italians wouldn't even feed their pigs.  And 2) Parmesan cheese mixed with honey or balsamic vinegarette is a heavenly marriage of tastes. 

From then we journeyed to Verona, the land of Shakespeare, Montagues, Capulets, and balconies.  Poor Parma was replaced as my favorite city the second we arrived in fair Verona.   The streets are helplessly lovely and the castles the lovingly protect this old city surround you as you walk up and down the streets.  We had another excellent lunch of risotto, steak and antipasto and the finest wine, I think, I have ever tasted.  An indepth walking tour of the sights, as well as a visit to Juliet's famed garden, made me fall madly in love with the place made famous for its star-crossed lovers.  How could I blame Juliet for her love when I myself was breathlessly captivated by the city's charm?

The weekend came to a close on Sunday as we left Verona.  After asking the concierge where a Catholic church was and he replied, this is Verona! Look on all street corners and there is the church! Waiting for you!  I ventured out early to Mass on my own then met up with my friends to stop at San Marino.  This small country on the eastern shore of Italy was probably the most surreal experience I have had in my life.  The clouds landed themselves delicately on the rolling green hills of the Italian countryside, all viewed from my perch at the top of a castle.  After somemore purchases of more souvenirs I could not live without, we were off again, heading back to Naples.

And thus ends the narrative from the weekends adventures!  Stay tuned for more Roman and Tuscan adventures at then end of next week!